West of London
Hammersmith – Taking in the route of the famous Cambridge vs. Oxford boat race, this walk follows the gently curves of the most serene stretch of the Thames.
Tube: Hammersmith
Walk down Hammersmith Bridge Road under the giant overpass and down to the river’s edge. Turn right under the elegant green suspension bridge to reach the Blue Anchor Pub. Their large sign informs patrons that composer Gustav Holst wrote his Hammersmith suite here in 1928. This part of the river is a popular place to watch the annual boat race which passes in late March.
Stay alongside the river where possible, passing by Furnival Gardens and the Upper Mall. The Dove is a colourful bar whose patrons have included Graham Greene and Ernest Hemingway. Officially Britain’s smallest pub, it’s augmented by a spacious riverside terrace.
Various boating clubs are dotted along the banks as the river bends past Hammersmith Terrace and Chiswick Mall. St Nicholas Church marks the start of Old Chiswick Village; the 18th century painter William Hogarth is buries here. Keep to the riverbank until Chiswick Pier where you leave the river via Corney Reach Way. At the roundabout take Corney Road to Burlington Lane. Cross over at the lights and enter Chiswick Gardens through the door in the wall.
Head past the café to the splendid Chiswick House and Museum, a sort of Victorian Disneyland. When finished with your visit, walk along the left side of the house by the water and explore the Ornamental Gardens, then cross the stone bridge to your left. When you get to the cricket grounds, exit the gardens behind the pavilion. To get to the Chiswick train station, cut through Fitzroy Crescent and Huntington Gardens to Burlington Lane.
Kew Gardens – When the city becomes too much, Londoners search out the peace of Kew Gardens.
Tube: Kew Gardens
Leave the picturesque Kew Gardens station and follow the signs to Kew Gardens. The Royal Botanical gardens at Kew, begun in 1770 by Princess Augusta, the mother of George III, occupies some 300 acres. A single entrance fee allows access to all the attractions. Beyond the visitors’ centre is the elegant Palm House and fragrant Rose Gardens.
Turn right, past the Water Lily House and circle the pond. Bear left through the woodland to the Princess of Wales Conservatory, where 10 different climatic zones are home to everything from desert cacti to swamp orchids. Next, walk north through the Orangery to Kew Palace, one of King George’s homes in the mid-1700s.
To the west past Brentford Gate, the picturesque Riverside Avenue begins. After a while drift back into the gardens past the Japanese Minka House and make your way to the lake, a stunning picnic spot despite the nose of plans heading for Heathrow Airport. The next port of call is Kew’s most famous attraction, the Temperate House. This massive glass building containing species from all the world’s tropics is a magical place to explore. Don’t miss the Chilean wine palm, the worlds largest indoor plant. Once you emerge from the steam make for the striking Pagoda in the far southern corner of the gardens. To return to the main gate, head north along the perimeter, under the Ruined Arch and past the Temple of Bellona.
Once outside the gardens follow Lichfield Road to the tube. There are several noteworthy stops around the station; Kew Greenhouse Café, near the station, is quintessentially English, and the Kew bookshop is a browser’s paradise.
Richmond – The latter half of this long but stunning river walk is not accessible at high tide so check the tidal tables before setting out.
Tube: Richmond
Cross at the light in front of the tube station, slip down Sun Alley Way to Parkshot and then turn left. Pass the classy Richmond Theatre into Richmond Green. When a cricket match is in progress this is undoubtedly the most picturesque village green in London. Circle the green counter-clockwise; there are lots of precious little shops down the narrow lanes that you can duck down.
Walk through the Tudor arch at the far side of the green onto Old Palace Yard, the site of royal palaces starting in the 14th century. Turn left on Old Palace Lane, then head down the lane to the river. Turn left on the broad path and walk toward the beautiful Richmond Bridge.
Under the bridge the Tide Tables Café is a serene place to watch the boats glide by. Farther along, a small tunnel leads under the road to the left to Terrace Gardens, a detour that results in rewarding views. Carry on along the riverbank, all the way past Glover’s Island and River Lane. At the sign for Ham House you should see the ferryman. For a small fee, he will take you to the other side, where you can walk back to Richmond Bridge along the Warren Footpath. Once you cross the bridge bear left and then right through cluttered George Street to the tube station.
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