Riverside
Waterloo to Whitehall - From one of London's busiest stations to the corridor of British power, this walk even includes a load of controversial art thrown in along the way.
Tube: Waterloo
Take a moment to look around the concourse of Waterloo Station. The original station opened in 1848 but it has been torn down and rebuilt since. Until it was ruined in World War II, a "funeral express" ran from Waterloo to Brookwood cemetery - with no return tickets. Leave through Exit 5 under the ornate entrance dedicated to British soldiers who fell in conflicts overseaas. Cross to the pedestrian Sutton Walk and continue on the Concert Hall Approach. Another left on Belvedere Road will bring into view Britain's favourite Ferris wheel, the London Eye.
Walk to it, then turn left on the riverside pathway toward Westminster Bridge. On the left, the imposing County Hall houses the Saatchi Gallery, home of some of the most controversial examples of Young British Art, including a few animals preserved in formaldehyde. Also housed in the County Hall are works by that other wild man of art, Salvador Dali. Turn right across Westminster Bridge under the shadow of Big Ben; its toll is still used live by the BBC to mark the hour.
Turn right up Whitehall. The black gates to 10 Downing Street, home of the Prime Minster, were constructed to shield Margaret Thatcher from IRA bombs. Further up Whitehall, the Queen's Life Guards sit on what must be the most unexcitable horses in the world. Thousands snap photos of them each day. Continue along Whitehall. At Trafalgar Square, after having a photo takern with the famous lion sculptures, walk to the Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery for a bite at Crivelli's Garden. Charing Cross tube station is minutes away.
St James's Park
No trip to London would be complete without popping by the Queen's house.
Tube: Westminster
Emerge from Westminster station into the heart of British power. Above, the glowing face of Big Ben keeps time. It took 30 years after a fire in 1834 for architect Sir Charles Barry to rebuild the Houses of Parliament next door. There are more than 1,200 rooms in the ornate buildings, most of which have been the location of some sort of political intrigue.
A statue of Winston Churchill keeps watch over the protesters in Parliament Square. Go left around the square to reach Westminster Abbey, the setting for every coronation since 1066 and home to a legion of famous dead. Follow Great George Street to horse Guards Road, and turn right past the Cabinet War Rooms, where a compelling audio tour describes Churchill's tense wartime experiences.
Turn left into St James's Park and follow the path alongside St James's Lake. At the first crossroads turn right towards Marlborough Gate. Turn left toward London's most famous residence, Buckingham Palace. Stick around to witness the changing of the guard - 11.30AM most days, but check to make sure - and see if you can peer in the windows. If the Union Jack is at full mast it means the Queen is home.
Crossing the unrelenting stream of black cabs is a chore, but worth if for a look at Thomas Brook's memorial sculpture of Queen Victoria in the centre of the roundabout. From here, walk through the gate into the sanctuary of Green Park, keeping an eye out for the striped lawn chairs availbale for rent in the warmer months. (There's nothing quite like a nap in the middle of the grass). Green Park tube station is at the north end of the park.
Jermyn Street
This walk, taken by London's finest gentlemen, passes through streets full of tailors, tabacconists and exclusive clubs.
Tube: Green Park
From the tube station turn towards the unmistakable Ritz Hotel and stroll under its concrete arches. Turn right on St James's Street. On the opposite side of the road is the unassuming entrance to White's, London's oldest and most exclusive club, open since 1753. Take a left on Ryder Street and another left on Bury Street. Stop in for a cocktail at Quaglino's, restauranteur Terence Conran's stylish subterranean eatery, complete with cigarette girls and piano players. Take a right on Jermyn Street, lined with tailors and shirt shops, including Thomas Pink.
On the right hand side is Taylor of Bond St, around since 1854 and known for its badger-bristle shaving brushes. At Dunhill's on the corner is a display of historic pipes. Further along the street look into Piccadilly Arcade, guarded by a bronze statue of the ultimate Jermyn Street man, Beau Brummel, who said "To be truly elegant, one should not be noticed".
On the northeast corner of Jermyn Street and Duke Street is the back entrance to Fortnum and Mason where you can buy the finest jellies and jams in the world. Afternoon tea on the fourth floor is recommended. Pass St James's Church turn right on to Duke of York Street. Keep right around St James's Square, passing the private London Library. Exit the square and turn left onto Pall Mall, follow it past the statue of Florence Nightingale. Follow Pall Mall all the way to Trafalgar Square. Ahead of you, high atop a column, is the one-armed gentleman, Lord Nelson, who looks out at the many entrances to Charing Cross tube.
Embankment
Stroll from the Thames past the finest secondhand bookshops and into the nation's Portrait Gallery.
Tube: Embankment
Look right as soon as you enter bustling Villiers Street. The Embankment Gardens has deck chairs for rent in the summer. Just past the park descend into Gordon's Wine Bar which serves homemade Port in an intimate cavelike atmosphere. Cross the Strand and turn left along Duncannon Sreet. Glance right to see the coffin-shaped memorial to Oscar Wilde. A few steps ahead is a staircase descending to the crypt at St Martin-in-the-Fields, where you can stop for a cup of tea in its cozy cafe.
Continue down Duncannon Street and veer right on St Martin's Lane toward the National Gallery that looks over Trafalgar Square. In addition to the beautiful rows of portraiture, visit the swank, Portrait Restaurant on the third floor which offers a fine view of Westminster Abbey.
Turn left up St Martin's Lane, past the English National Opera and beside it, Brydges Place, perhaps the narrowest passage in Great Britain. A few doors up, through chic revolving doors is the St Martin's Lane Hotel, designed by Philippe Starck. Those with sturdy legs can have a drink at the standing bar.
A left on St Martin's Court leads to Charing Cross Road. Turn right and walk past the row of secondhand bookshops, including Murder One for crime enthusiasts. Turn right on Litchfield Street past The Ivy, one of London's most exclusive eateries. Up ahead is the glowing sign for The Mousetrap, the world's longest running play, at the St Martin's Theatre. Poke your head into the lobby to see if they've reached performance 25,000. Take a left on West Street and another left of Charing Cross Road and you are back at Leicester Square tube station.
